http://bethesda.patch.com/articles/catch-of-the-day-freddys
Catch of the Day: Freddy's
Lobster, clams, chowdah and more on Cordell Avenue.
I’ve noted many changes over the years on Cordell Avenue in Bethesda’s Woodmont Triangle. Some restaurants have stood the test of time--take Matuba, Pannetteria and Tragara for example—others adapted or morphed multiple times. Remember the Tel Aviv Café? Well, there’s a new kid in on the block--Freddy’s Lobster & Clams—in its former location.
My first instinct as I walked into this shiny-new seafood restaurant was —hey, this could work! All my neighbors are buzzing about Freddy’s (while I was there, three friends walked in for lunch for their second time that week!), but what stands out to me is the friendly service, cheerful décor and food options that are really fun.
Freddy’s Lobster & Clams, at 4867 Cordell, was created by Grapeseed owner Jeff Heineman who as a child spent time with his grandfather (for whom the restaurant is named) in New England. There, apparently, they regularly dined on fresh clams and lobster. I can understand how those childhood experiences helped Heineman re-create a seafood shack you’d typically find in Bar Harbor or Nantucket. Heineman’s memories have inspired a restaurant quite different from his successful and elegant Grapeseed.
Freddy’s is now Grapeseed’s casual next-door neighbor. Heineman’s new place is where you stop for a craft beer at the bar, gather into a cozy booth, and when weather permits, dine al fresco. I’ve seen people eating at Freddy’s outdoor picnic tables. If you squint, you can imagine little waves lapping at the dock, while authentic-looking New England cuisine is served in paper boxes or Styrofoam cups.
I say “authentic,” because I’ve heard mixed reviews about Freddy’s food. Some people rave about the lobster roll, while others say it’s not like the ones they ate in Boston. Well, I ate a lobster roll in Halifax, Nova Scotia last summer, and frankly, I thought Freddy’s lobster roll was better. I don’t presume to be an expert, I haven’t eaten many in my lifetime, but I thought it was scrumptious. Freddy’s lobster roll is compact, but there’s no filler (like celery), and it’s served on the perfect bun—toasted, buttered and substantial enough to hold a hearty portion of claw and tail meat.
I ate the chilled version of the lobster roll gently bathed in lemony, paprika mayonnaise dressing; there’s also a warm version topped with butter. The lobster meat is cut into large chunks, and the rolls come with skinny, crispy French fries--addicting, though not necessarily great. For $2 more you can replace fries for giant onion rings. Another optional side, coleslaw flavored with fennel, was (perhaps) a bit odd. We thought it should be as traditional as the other items on the menu.
We enjoyed the calamari which comes with red sauce or is served spicy-Rhode Island style. The crusty batter does not overwhelm--the calamari inside remained tender and juicy. And though there is no need to hide Freddy’s calamari in tangy marinara and spicy tartar, the sauces were savory accompaniments.
Freddy’s fried belly clams seem to be the fave among those who know New England cuisine. They get a big thumbs up from just about everyone who likes clams. I am not one of those people, but I might try them next time. For the fish ‘n chips, a large piece of fried haddock arrives atop a mountain of fries. There’s also a New England version of lobster stew and two kinds of clam chowder—New England creamy or Rhode Island "clear." Landlubbers will find a safe haven with salad, grilled steak or chicken served in a Portuguese tomato olive sauce.
I’ve heard from one insider that Freddy’s will offer clams and other seafood delicacies grilled or boiled once they are seasonal. That may suit people who hesitate to eat fried food.
Freddy’s bar is full service, but the main dining room requires you to order at a window, and then the meal is delivered to your table. The food is not inexpensive, but a little goes a long way. They have a kid’s meal with hamburger, hot dogs, grilled cheese, and for the adventurous tot, clam strips or shrimp boats.
I really, really would like to try the whoopie pie for dessert but was too full this time. Freddy’s arrival in Bethesda was perfectly timed with the steamy summer weather. What do you think, is Freddy's here to stay?
http://reviews.dcdining.com/2011/05/17/freddys-lobster-and-clams-bethesda-md
Freddy’s Lobster and Clams, Bethesda, MD
Musings from Don Rockwell
May 17th was opening night for Freddy’s Lobster and Clams, and when I walked in, none other than Jeff and Barbara Black were sitting at the bar, paying respect to owner Jeff Heineman. I knew bartender Chris Cunningham was working here, but he still seemed out of place since I’m so used to seeing him inside of the DC city limits.
I pulled up a barstool, and asked Chris to recommend a drink. The wryly named Wicked Awesome Pissa ($12) is made with Plymouth Gin, fresh lemon juice, muddled strawberries and basil, and a soda floater. As it sounds like, it’s a great summer drink, and I love the fact that it isn’t gratuitously sweet.
Freddy’s inherited some wines from the old Tel Aviv Cafe, and will need to finish going through them before their list starts to approach that of Grapeseed; for now, beers are the star of the show here. A bottle of Fullers ESB ($6.50) should do the trick with most things on the menu.
I asked Chris what his favorite things were, and he said “fried whole belly clams, a cold lobster roll, lobster stew, home style chowder, and onion rings.”
A platter of Fried Whole Belly Clams ($15) might shock those used to clam strips. Picture a marble with a tentacle attached, breaded and fried, and that’s the appearance – the marble is the whole belly, of course, and bursts when you bite into it, having a texture not unlike a juicy version of shad roe. These were wonderful clams, but I thought the batter was slightly underseasoned (remember, this was the very first night they opened). Later that evening, Jeff (Heineman) told me he tasted one of them, and said to himself, “Damn” – he thought the very same thing, and was going to tweak it.
But the onion rings, served with the platter, were seasoned just right – they’ve gotten some criticism over on donrockwell.com, but I really liked them. Plus, I really appreciated that when you bit into them, the entire onion ring didn’t come flying out, i.e., they were thoroughly cooked.
This platter alone was more than enough food for me, but Jeff brought over small samples of the Lobster Stew ($8 for a small) and the Home Style Creamy Clam Chowder ($5 for a small), both of which have also received some criticism on donrockwell.com, mainly for being too thin. I take strong exception to this – it specifically says on the menu, “Our stew and chowder are authentic New England style – not thickened with flour.” Works with me! The stew is indeed thinner than many people might be used to, and its buttery component goes beautifully with the in-cred-i-ble homemade blueberry muffin that it comes with. Yes, it comes with a blueberry muffin that’s worth killing for. The chowder is naturally thicker due to the potatoes, and for my tastes, is as good as any New England clam chowder I’ve ever had.
I liked that chowder so much that I ordered a Regular ($8) to take home and have for lunch alongside a Cold Lobster Roll with Mayo ($15). Again, that lobster roll has taken some internet heat for being too small, but to me, it’s the best version I’ve had outside of Maine. As far as I know, Freddy’s is the only restaurant in the Washington, DC area serving fresh, i.e., never been frozen, lobster rolls, made with meat pulled from lobsters swimming in their 450-gallon tank that same day (or thereabouts). If there’s any other restaurant (or truck) serving fresh lobster rolls in town, someone please let me know – indeed, these rolls aren’t huge, but you only pull 3.5-4 ounces of meat from a one-pound lobster, and that’s about what these contain. And they come with fries, too.
Reviewed on: 06-26-2012 00:33:47 by Colram
http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/27542/view=beerfly
Excellent food for a reasonable price. The beer selection is well above average, even for a demanding beer connoisseur like me. A friendly, casual, fun atmosphere with smart local flavor and clientele. Outside seating could be better than the picnic tables currently there, but the strung lights and seaside decor are fun regardless. And the huge wall of open windows makes it feel like you're at the beach. Be sure to try the lobster rolls and peel-and-eat shrimp. I'll be returning every time I'm in town.
Cheap Eats 2012: Freddy’s Lobster & Clams
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Jessica Voelker, Cynthia Hacinli
Dare to order lobster poutine at this shanty-style restaurant and you’ll be richly rewarded. Lobster gravy and gooey fontina top waffle fries in a dish that sounds like it shouldn’t work but does. Pace yourself—the tricky part of eating at this suburban fish house, owned by Jeff Heineman from the neighboring wine bar Grapeseed, is not to fill up too fast. Simple lobster rolls—warm with butter or cold with mayo—are a must, if only to see which camp you fall into (we’re on team mayo). Fried whole belly clams boast the perfect mixture of fatty crunch and brininess. The only thing that deserves to be overlooked? The healthy stuff. Skip ho-hum salads and worry about calorie counts at your next meal.
Also good: Clam chowder; fish and chips; fried calamari
Freddy’s Lobster and Clams: Where lobster rolls rule the roost
byDining Review, Brian Patterson
Lobster rolls are to Mainers what crab cakes are to Marylanders, simple yet sublime fare, typically served on a paper plate, and the subject of unending debate about purity and refinement. Aficionados may prescribe that either be served hot or cold, with precisely this or that much mayonnaise, seasoned just so and the white bread toasted. Ultimately, all that matters is that everything from bun to seasoning plays a supporting role to a generous portion of competently cooked and shucked shellfish meat, and that it tastes and feels delicious as it is eaten.
Enter the $14 lobster roll at Freddy’s Lobster and Clams, which consists of the meat of an entire lobster, succulent, barely dressed or seasoned, piled onto a toasted bun made from the split top of a loaf of white bread. It may not transport you directly to Matinicus Island Harbor if you’ve not been there before, but it sure gives you a glimpse of how tasty it must be.
Freddy’s Lobster and Clams, inspired by Freddy, Chef Jeff Heineman’s clambake idol and grandfather, is the antithesis of its next-door neighbor, the ultra-refined Grapeseed restaurant. Heineman owns and operates both establishments. While Grapeseed boasts comfy chairs and continental cuisine with selected wine pairings for each course, almost all of Freddy’s fare, is presented on paper service at picnic tables and booths, with an exhaustively biographical menu of international beers. Seventies rock music, strings of lobster Christmas lights, buoys and rough-hewn posts as well as a densely populated lobster tank convey authentic Maine ambiance.
Not surprisingly, lobster permeates the menu. Lobster stew features scads of tender morsels of lobster, cooked right the first time in a hot pan rather than reheated and rubbery in a pot, and it is served with nothing but a dense cream infused with lobster and butter. Clam chowder is good in the same way the stew is good, and it comes with a tiny bag of honest Maine oyster crackers. Mashed potatoes are made with lobster cream and finished with chunks of lobster meat. Lobster eggs are deviled eggs, but in place of the whipped yolk, the cooked egg white is stuffed with ground and seasoned lobster meat. Each one is served on a plate drizzled with lemony mayonnaise, so that the first thing that hits the taste buds is the rich and sour mayonnaise.
When it comes to fried goodness, get the fried calamari the way the server recommends it, tossed with sweet and hot peppers and garlic rather than the house marinara. Fried clams are crisp and fresh served with thin, well-done fries. Speaking of fried, local fried chicken heroine Gillian Clark serves up her iconic fried chicken on Thursdays at Freddy’s. Fish and chips are by the book, a crisp beer batter with fresh steamy hot haddock on the inside, complimented by plenty of fries, and small paper cups of pickly tartar sauce and mild cole slaw.
Grilled swordfish is perfectly cooked with the char of the grill and a trace of translucence at the center. Dinner entrees are currently served with large asparagus spears cooked and finished on the grill.
The shrimp salad is good, with better-than-average shrimp garnished with thick, sliced red onions, ripe cherry tomatoes and iceberg lettuce. Grilled Portuguese sausage is a fine entrée but not a highlight here.
When it comes to dessert, house made whoopie pies can’t be beat.
While the lobster roll may be the draw, the hook at Freddy’s is the Claw, the most impressive Bloody Mary south of the Mason-Dixon Line. Speared on a swizzle stick are pieces of lobster, lemon, tomato and olive, all immersed in a potent slurry of tomato and horseradish, and garnished with celery and a menacing lobster claw reaching out of a salt-rimmed glass.